For more information on trail hiking food check out my 5,000 Calorie Hiking Food Article

Continued in Part 2 (below)

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Erik the Black's Ultralight Backpacking Clothing System

One of the biggest myths about ultralight backpacking is that lightweight backpackers are often cold, uncomfortable and on the verge of hypothermia.

That doesn’t have to be true…

I have used the clothing system I am about to show you in daytime temps ranging from 110 degrees down to 15 degrees including freezing cold rain and snow -  quite comfortably.

I was planning on sharing a bunch of theory about “layering” and “multi-use clothing”… but I don’t feel much like writing today.

So instead, I’m just going to show you exactly what clothing I take on a long-distance backpacking trip.

Here it is…

Clothing Packed (included in pack weight)

Clothing Typically Worn (excluded from pack weight)

And here’s how it works…

Warm Weather Hiking

Warm Weather Backpacking Clothing

Base Layer / Sleeping Clothes

Base Layer / Sleeping Clothes

Cool Weather Hiking

Cool Weather Backpacking Clothing

Warm Rain Hiking

Warm Rain Backpacking Clothing

Cold Rain / Snow Hiking

Cold Rain and Snow Backpacking Clothing

There are more configurations that just the ones shown here – but these are the major ones.

Since each piece of clothing is multi-use they can be combined many different ways to create the best combination of warmth or coolness, protection from the elements, breathability and comfort.

… and now you know why they call me Erik the Black

You must have Microsoft Excel with the Analysis ToolPak installed to use this tool.

Click Here to Download the ITINERARY SPREADSHEET

Old school backpacker

When I first started backpacking I made a classic mistake. The first thing I did was run out and buy a pair of heavy duty leather hiking boots.

I thought of the iconic images of the 1970s era backpackers from my dad’s old Backpacker magazines with their huge 70lb external frame packs, sturdy leather “waffle stompers” and tree branch hiking sticks…

“Real hikers” wear boots… I thought.

Big mistake! Leather boots are the worst type of footwear for a long hike. They are hot, heavy and stiff… and despite the age old myth that they provide “protection” for your feet, they do more harm that good.

There are many better alternatives to heavy leather boots for comfortable hiking footwear. Here are some suggestions for choosing the best trail hiking shoes for your next hike…

Tips for choosing a better hiking shoe:

Find a shoe that fits your foot shape. Everyone’s feet are shaped differently, so finding the right shoes is not as easy as asking your friend what shoes worked well for them, because they may have tall narrow feet with a square toe box when you have flat wide feet with a triangular toe box. Have your feet professionally measured and then find a shoe that fits your specific foot shape.

The lighter weight the better. Remember back in the 80s during the “aerobics craze” when women wore ankle weights to increase resistance while walking or jogging? Wearing heavy trail boots is no different. The heavier your shoes the harder you will have to work to lift your feet with every single step. Leather hiking boots typically wear more than 3.5 lbs each. You want trail shoes that weigh less than 1.5lbs each.

Buy one size larger than normal. If you carry a backpack (even a lightweight one) for a long time your feet can swell temporarily and sometimes even grow permanently. (My feet have grown from size 12D to 13EEEE since I started long-distance backpacking). A larger size shoe gives your feet room to grow. Also consider shoes in Wide (2E – 4E) widths to allow for foot flattening and sideways expansion.

Make sure they are breathable. Most lightweight hiking shoes come with strategically placed mesh panels to allow for better airflow and ventilation around your feet. This is good because hot, sweaty feet can cause painful blisters.

Replace the insoles. The “stock” insoles that come with most hiking shoes are junk. They provide little cushioning and usually fall apart after just a couple hundred miles. My favorite replacement insoles are Montrail Enduro Soles. Another popular insole is Superfeet (I hate Superfeet because they are too stiff).

Choose the right socks. A lot of backpackers immediately gravitate toward heavy wool “hiking socks” because they provide a lot of extra padding (but they are also thick, hot, heavy and sweaty). If you’re carrying a light pack and wearing the right shoes and insoles it’s not necessary to have a thick sock. I like to hike in ankle-height, lightweight running socks like those from Smartwool and Wrightsock.

The Best Types of Shoes For Lightweight Hiking

* Pros and cons refer to each category of shoe in general, not the specific models pictured.

New Balance 708

Trail Running Shoes

Pros:
* Ultra lightweight
* Highly breathable
* Flexible and comfortable

Cons:
* Not very durable (only last 400-500 miles)
* Expensive ($80+ per pair)
* Minimal ankle support

Merrel Moab Ventilator

Cross Trainers Erik’s Choice

Pros:
* Lightweight and comfortable
* More support and protection than trail runners
* More durable than trail runners (last 600 – 1,000 miles)

Cons:
* Expensive ($80+ per pair)
* Heavier than trail runners
* Only partial ankle protection

Patagonia Release

Lightweight Hiking Boots

Pros:
* Full ankle protection
* Sturdier sole than trail runners
* Good transition from traditional boots

Cons:
* Typically not as breathable as runners
* Heavier than runners and cross trainers
* Expensive ($100+ per pair)

Teva Terra-Fi 3

Hiking Sandals

Pros:
* Lightweight and highly breathable
* Fewer areas to rub and cause blisters
* Very fast drying

Cons:
* No protection from rocks and trail debris
* Feet can dry out or get sunburned (unless you wear socks)
* Bad for hiking in snow or cold rain

Erik the Black tarping in Oregon

Choosing a shelter for a long-distance backpacking trip is one of the most important gear decisions you can make. You want something that is lightweight, easy to set up and provides adequate protection from the elements, given the season and location where you plan to hike.

What a backpacking shelter is and is not

One mistake beginning backpackers make when choosing a shelter is looking for a “home away from home”. When you hike for 10 hours a day you live on your feet. Not inside your shelter. So a backpacking shelter is not a home away from home.

Here is what it is…

It’s one more piece of heavy gear that you have to lug around on your back all day, that only gets used in bad weather and for sleeping. On trails like the Pacific Crest Trail you can go for weeks or months in the summer without ever needing to erect your shelter. (On my ‘07 PCT thru hike I set up my tarp fewer than 20 nights in the whole 5 months I was out there)

So, I think it helps to think of your backpacking shelter not as a portable house, but as a piece of emergency gear (like a 1st aid kit). You want it to be there when you need it to keep you warm and dry, but it should be lightweight and no-frills so it doesn’t weigh you down the 80% of the time when you aren’t using it.

How much should a backpacking shelter weigh?

If you are planning on hiking long distances (more than 100 miles) I recommend keeping your shelter weight under 3 lbs per person. Ideally you want to aim for 2 lbs or less. My 3-piece modular tarp system weighs just 16 oz – 25 oz and provides all the protection I need from wind, rain, snow and bugs.

Here are some of your choices…

Lightweight shelters suitable for 3-season backpacking and thru hiking:

* Pros and cons refer to each category of shelter in general, not the specific models pictured.

Gossamer Gear Spinntwinn

Tarps & Poncho Tarps (0.5 lb – 1.5 lbs)

Pros:
* Quick and easy to pitch (but there is a learning curve)
* Lightweight and spacious, good ventilation
* Lots of room for gear, stove, dog, girlfriend, etc.

Cons:
* No bug protection (unless you add a bug tent)
* Only partial wind protection
* No floor (need a good ground cloth)

Henry Shires Tarptent Contrail

Tarp-tents (1.5 lbs – 2.5 lbs)

Pros:
* Complete bug protection, bathtub floor
* Lightweight and compact
* One-stop shelter solution

Cons:
* Cumbersome to pitch (varies by model)
* Narrow and claustrophobic
* Poor ventilation, condensation

Big Agnes Seedhouse SL1

U.L. Freestanding Tents (2.5 lbs – 4 lbs)

Pros:
* Quick easy pitch, freestanding
* Full bug protection & bathtub floor
* Double-wall, good ventilation

Cons:
* Heavy weight & bulky
* Narrow & claustrophobic (with rain fly on)
* Very expensive

Hennesy Hammock

Hammocks (1.5 lbs – 2.5 lbs)

Pros:
* Comfortable (up off the ground)
* Lightweight and compact
* Bug protection

Cons:
* Requires trees to set up
* Not much room to move around
* Cold underneath (added insulation required)

Sea to Summit Bug Pyramid

Bug Shelters (for tarp campers)

If you tarp-camp in mosquito country, consider adding a:

Bug Bivy: Lightweight bug net that covers the top half of your body, used in conjunction with your sleeping bag to provide mosquito protection while you sleep, or a…

Bug Tent: Bug protection for your entire body. Clip to the bottom of your tarp or set up with trees/trekking poles. Some are floorless and others include a bathtub floor.

Tyvek - a popular U.L. groundcloth

Ground Sheets

If you use a tarp, or just like to sleep out under the stars from time to time, you will need to carry a separate ground cloth. Here are a few popular U.L. groundcloth options:

* Tyvek: Water resistant, lightweight and inexpensive
* Sil-nylon: Lightweight, waterproof, but slippery
* Spinnaker fabric: Ultralight, but expensive & hard to find
* 2 mil polyethelyne sheet: Lightweight, waterproof, cheap
* Mylar space blanket: Ultralight, but not very durable

Erik the Black's 3-Piece Modular Shelter

What I use: My 25 oz. 3-Piece Modular Ultralight Thru Hiking Shelter System

This is the shelter system I will be using this year on my Pacific Crest Trail thru hike. It consists of three pieces:

1) Gossamer Gear Siltwinn Tarp
2) Sea to Summit Bug Pyramid
3) Gossamer Gear Spinnsheet

A modular system provides maximum flexibility for all kinds of different conditions. With this system I can:

* Cowboy camp using just the groundsheet
* In buggy, warm weather pitch the bug tent under tarp
* In rainy weather pitch the tarp and groundsheet together
* In areas with no bugs bounce the bug tent and cut weight

I hope this gives you some good ideas for choosing the right shelter for your next big hike. Happy trails!

But, with the right foods you can blast up the hills and still enjoy your meals (forget choking down trail mix, granola and energy bars day after day).

The best hiking foods are high-calorie, lightweight, low volume, non-perishable, taste good and pack easily (don’t crumble, squish, melt or spoil).

Here are some guidelines I follow when choosing foods for for a long-distance hike…

Hiking Food Tips

• Select calorie-dense foods (foods that have a caloric density of 100+ calories per ounce)
• Pack 1.5 to 3 lbs of food per day (depending on your body weight and trail appetite)
• Eat 3,000 – 6,000 calories per day (this still isn’t enough, but close)
• Buy foods that taste good (that you don’t mind eating over and over again)
• Choose foods that are available everywhere (dehydrating and preparing mail drops is no fun)
• Avoid foods that are high in fiber, protein or water (too heavy, not enough calories)
• Embrace “junk food” (there is no better source of lightweight, great tasting calories)
• Catch up on “healthy food” in towns (fresh fruit, meat, dairy, vegetables, etc.)
• Supplement with multi-vitamins and minerals (to make up for nutritional deficiencies)

Here is an example of what I might eat in a typical day, on a long-distance hike:
(I am a 30 year old male, 6 feet tall and my pre-trail weight is about 200 lbs)

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Water is essential for survival in the backcountry, but it is also one of the heaviest things you will have to carry in your pack. One quart of water weighs in at a whopping 2 lbs! So, it doesn’t make much sense to spend so much time and money reducing your pack weight only to carry too much water and weigh it down again. On the other hand, it’s also not smart to skimp on water just for the sake of reducing pack weight because that’s dangerous.

In this post you will discover where to find accurate water source information for the Pacific Crest Trail, what the best water containers are, how much water to carry between sources and some strategies I use to reduce the amount of water weight in my pack (without sacrificing safety or risking dehydration).

Pacific Crest Trail water source info

It is vitally important when hiking the PCT to know where the on-trail and off-trail water sources are located. Unlike other trails where the water is apparent and plentiful (with springs and streams crossing the path) water on the Pacific Crest Trail is often inconspicuous, hidden or located well off the trail.

Here are some resources which you can use to find water on the Pacific Crest Trail:

AsaBat’s SoCal PCT Water Report: Asabat’s SoCal PCT Water Report is a must-have if you are hiking the Pacific Crest Trail in Southern California (where water is not as reliable or as plentiful as in other sections). The water report is updated frequently based on recent first-hand accounts of the status of water sources made by hikers as they pass through. Print out the most recent version before you start hiking.

Pacific Crest Trail Atlas: My Pacific Crest Trail Atlas includes a comprehensive list of on-trail, near-trail and off-trail water sources for the entire Pacific Crest Trail, along with the distance between sources and information on whether they are typically “reliable” or “seasonal”

Pacific Crest Trail Water Source Information (Pacific Crest Trail Atlas 2nd Edition)

Yogi’s PCT Handbook: Yogi’s PCT Handbook does not include information for every water source, but does include detailed notes based on her own and other hiker’s past experiences regarding specific water sources that are known to be difficult to find, have varying reliability from year to year or are important because they lie in the middle of a long waterless stretch.

Pacific Crest Trail Data Book: The Pacific Crest Trail Data Book contains a comprehensive list of water sources for the entire Pacific Crest Trail compiled from the information in the Wilderness Press guides.

Types of water sources on the Pacific Crest Trail

Natural sources: Most of the places where you will get water on the Pacific Crest Trail (especially outside of Southern California) are natural springs, streams, creeks and occasionally lakes.

Manmade sources: There are not many man-made water sources along the Pacific Crest Trail, but on occasion you will get water from spigots, fire or stock tanks, reservoirs, private residences or businesses (with the owners permission) and in trail towns.

Water caches: In Southern California (where water is sparse) and a couple other areas of the PCT (such as the Hat Creek Rim in Northern California) trail angels will put out water caches for the hikers to use in the middle of particularly long, dry, waterless sections of trail. Caches vary in size and reliability and should never be relied on but can be useful (more on water caches later).

Water containers

The most common types of water containers on the Pacific Crest Trail are lightweight plastic 1 liter bottles (such as Aquafina bottles or Gatorade bottles) and lightweight water bladders (like those made by Platypus and MSR). Heavy-duty bottles like Nalgenes are overkill and too heavy.

Aquafina

Water bottles: The good thing about bottles is that they are sturdy and not easily punctured like bladders. They are also good for catching water from springs and scooping from shallow water holes (if you don’t have a pump filter). Bottles are also nice because they stand up on their own unlike bladders. To carry enough water for some of the longer stretches on the PCT using just bottles would be heavy and bulky though.

Platypus

Water bladders: Water bladders are convenient because they are lightweight and allow you to fit a lot of water in convenient spaces inside your pack. You can also attach a drinking tube and drink as you hike instead of having to stop and get out your bottles all of the time. The downside to water bladders is they are fragile and can get punctured at inopportune times (so don’t put all your water in one bladder).

Hybrid method: I like to use both bottles and bladders for transporting water on the Pacific Crest Trail. I carry one 1 liter Aquafina bottle and two 2.4 liter Platypus bladders. This gives me a maximum water carrying capacity of nearly 6 liters and weighs only 6.4 ounces (including a drinking hose).

Water treatment

Katadyn

Pump-filters: Pump water filters are, in my opinion, not a very good solution for filtering water. They are cumbersome and heavy (upward of 10 ounces when dry), tend to clog often and require replacement cartridges every 700 miles or so. Plus every time you want water it requires a lot of arm-pumping labor to get it. They are convenient for getting water out of shallow pools though.

Sawyer

Inline filters: A new and more elegant solution for water filtration is inline water filters, such as the Sawyer filter which I use. They weigh just a couple of ounces, go in-line in your drinking tube so the water is filtered as you suck it through (no arm-pumping required) and can be back-flushed in towns using a water faucet adaptor to extend their life indefinitely.

Aquamira

Chemicals: Another popular lightweight option for water filtration is chemical treatments, such as Aquamira, MSR Sweetwater drops, iodine, chlorine and bleach. One downside of chemical treatments is the taste and sometimes they take a while (between 5 and 30 minutes) to fully treat your water. I’ve used Aquamira and the MSR drops before and they worked well. I’ve never tried any of the other options.

Not filtering: I have to admit, 80% of the time I do NOT treat my water in the backcountry. The only time I treat water is when there is livestock (like cows) nearby, if the water is stagnant or at low elevations where it looks like there could be runoff from nearby towns or industry. I’ve never gotten really sick from drinking untreated water, but that doesn’t mean that you won’t (or that I won’t sometime in the future). Warning: Drink untreated water at your own risk.

How much water to carry between water sources?

I generally vary the amount of water I carry between water sources depending on the weather. If it is cool and cloudy I will carry less. If it’s hot and sunny I will carry more.

Cool weather: In cool weather I typically carry 1 liter of water for every 5-10 miles of hiking. So that would be 1-2 liters of water for a 10 mile stretch.

Hot weather: In hot weather I typically carry 1 liter of water for every 3-5 miles of hiking. So that would be 2-3 liters of water for a 10 mile stretch.

On average, there is water available about every 5-10 miles on the Pacific Crest Trail (either on-trail or less than half a mile off-trail). In Southern California the water sources tend to further apart (10-20 miles) and in the northern parts of the trail they are typically closer together (5-7 miles).

There are some stretches (not many) on the Pacific Crest Trail where the water sources are 20-30 miles apart. My maximum water carrying capacity is 6 liters (which is 12 pounds of water weight). Using some of the strategies below I can make this work for 30 or even 40 mile waterless stretches.

Strategies for carrying less water and staying hydrated

“Camel up” at water sources: This is my favorite technique. In hot weather, every time I hit a water source I’ll stop and rest for a while, and drink my fill (more than my fill) of water. I typically try to drink between 1-2 liters of water at the water sources (depending on how long I stay). Water in your stomach is easier to carry than water on your back (because it is closer to your center of gravity) and water in your stomach is also being used by your body (unlike water on your back, which is doing nothing but weighing you down).

Camp at water sources: Camping uses up a lot of water for cooking, cleaning and also keeping hydrated throughout the night (just because you stop hiking doesn’t mean you can stop drinking). If you “dry camp” that means you have to carry water not only for the miles you will hike, but extra water for the 10 hours you will spend in camp. In hot weather I make an effort to schedule my day so that rest stops and camp spots are at or near water sources. It doesn’t always work out that way, but if you can pull it off you will carry less water.

Carry an umbrella: Ray Jardine popularized this idea and it is a good one. An umbrella (especially a reflective umbrella like the Golite Chrome Dome) is superior to a sun hat for hot weather. It is like carrying a portable shade tree with you everywhere you go! An umbrella will help keep you cool, so you will sweat less, and lose less water.

Mid-day siestas: A popular trick among thru-hikers in the desert is to get up really early before the sun rises and hike until about 10am (when it starts to get hot). Then stop and rest in the shade (and hopefully near water) until 2pm or 4pm (when it starts to cool down). Then hike into the evening until your miles are done. By avoiding the hottest part of the day you can conserve water.

Night hiking: Taking the mid-day siesta technique to its extreme is simply to hike at night. Night hiking can be very pleasant in the desert (especially under a full moon) and because the temperature in the desert drops drastically at night you will use half as much water. One thing you have to be careful of not to pass up a water source or other important landmark (like a trail intersection) in the dark… pay close attention to where you are when night hiking.

Reduce your pack weight: The more weight you carry the more work your body has to do with every step you take. The more work you do the more you will sweat and the more water you will need just to keep putting one foot in front of the other. By reducing your base pack weight (all gear minus food and water) to 13 pounds or less you will have a more comfortable hike, and your pack weight will be reduced even further when you have to carry less water to support yourself.

How to use water caches

Water caches are a controversial subject on the PCT. Some people claim that they are a bad thing because they make the PCT less challenging and teach hikers not to be self-sufficient. I don’t disagree with this. But I can tell you from experience that when you are out there hiking in the hot sun nothing is more welcome and appreciated than a cache left by some kind trail angel.

Some people will recommend that you “NEVER rely on water caches”. I agree. You should never rely on water caches for survival or use a water cache as your primary water source. But I think it would be silly to pretend that the caches don’t exist, when they do. What I like to do is split the difference.

If I know that there is a large, reliable cache (which you can usually figure out from the water report) up ahead I will carry the bare minimum of water needed to safely get past the cache to the next reliable water source (in case the cache is empty). But I’ll plan to take a liter or two at the cache (if it does happen to be full). In my experience the big caches are usually well-stocked during thru-hiking season, so you have at least a 50% chance of finding water at one. Just be prepared to go the distance without it.

Thru hiking permit

Thru hikers can get a permit that covers camping in all of the different jurisdictions the Pacific Crest Trail passes through from the Pacific Crest Trail Association. A thru-hiking permit is free to PCTA members. They suggest a $5 donation for non-members. Thru Hiking Permit application (PCTA).

Canada entry permit

The northern terminus of the PCT is 8 miles into Canada. If you are thru-hiking you are supposed to get a permit to enter Canada via the PCT. They will do a background check, so if you have skeletons in your closet you may want to skip this step. Canada Entry Permit application (PCTA).

Passport & ID

In order to enter Canada from the United States or the United States from Canada you will need a passport and ID. You probably don’t want to carry your passport for the whole trip (and risk losing or damaging it). I recommend you have your passport mailed to one of  your resupply stops near the Canada border (like Stehekin) or keep it in your bounce box.

Mount Whitney permit

Mount Whitney (the highest peak in the continental United States at 14,496 ft) is a popular side-trip from the Pacific Crest Trail. I highly recommend doing Mount Whitney when you are in the Sierra. According this map of the Whitney Zone the western route which you will take to summit Mount Whitney from the PCT/JMT does not actually enter the “Whitney Zone” and should not require a permit.

However, if you plan to enter the Whitney Zone or go out through Whitney Portal to resupply you will need a permit, which you can get through the PCTA by checking a box on your thru hiking permit application and paying a $15 fee.

USFS Campfire permit

You can obtain a California Campfire Permit by taking a short quiz about responsible fire use and printing out your own permit. This covers federally controlled lands falling under USFS, BLM and NPS jurisdiction along the California Pacific Crest Trail.

Permits for Section hikers

If you plan to hike 500 miles or more you can get a thru hiking permit. If you plan to hike less than 500 miles you may need to get a permit for overnight camping in some areas on the PCT.  Sometimes there are self-serve permit slips available at the trailheads. In other areas camping permits are not required. Check with the agency that manages the area you plan to hike through (USFS, BLM, State Parks, etc.).